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In my opinion they are supremely average with all the good and bad that accompanies that word. I see them everywhere, in fact typing this I'm in a parking lot across from one.. I know they sold a lot but there seems to still be a lot on the road, even 15 year old ones. The rear subframe rots in rust states but it's not difficult or expensive to replace. 2014+ models with the 6 speed auto trans are usually preferred over the earlier CVT

The motor already makes about as much as it's going to make naturally aspirated, peak horsepower happens at 6000 rpm which tells us there's no trouble breathing. Even the much newer 2.4L Ecotec from GM with direct injection only makes 7 additional ft-lbs of torque. So far I have never seen anyone successfully integrate forced induction (turbo or supercharge) on a Patriot, it's really not worth doing anyway because for the cost you could just buy a more powerful car if you wanted a more powerful car. If you're still shopping and you don't think the Patriot has enough power, keep shopping.

If you go to jscan dot net, that's the application you'll need for an android or iOS device. the application is free but you need to license it for your VIN if you want to make changes to your Jeep, pretty affordable. They also have a list of compatible adapters on that site, many of them are also very affordable and can be used for any vehicle made after 1996 to diagnose trouble codes & reset check engine lights.

Glad I could help! If it's in your budget to go true dual instead of the Y pipe stuff shown here I think it's a good idea, the Y is really hard to fit just right

On your advice I checked those out, they look like a good fit in every way except the actual fit - they don't make 'em in 285/70R17. I did see the Cooper Discoverer Stronghold which is available in this size and has the 3 peak snowflake thing. I won't be in the market this year but next fall I hope to be tire shopping and those are on the list!

PS it's Kristian

I can still go get Cyber Pizza though right?

Congrats! Just my opinion these Jeeps don't benefit from a lift, unless cosmetic appearance is your main goal. If it's just about looks? Sure. If it's about capability you've got some real limited overall suspension travel (CV axle interference up front, wild camber changes in back) so what you gain in clearance you give up in ride and articulation - not to mention how many people wind up struggling with alignment after a lift.

I just did extended manual brake bleeding until I had gone through a whole quart. There's an ABS cycle you can run to flush the ABS pump, using JSCAN too but that's mostly for when you replace an ABS pump assembly or when the brake system has gone dry (cut hose, collision damage, etc) - there's so little left inside the actual pump that I didn't think it was worth cycling that just for a routine fluid replacement.

@@shoveI So you did not siphon anything out thru reservoir!? You just bleeded thru bleed screws on the calipers?

That's correct, just added to the top and bled out at each wheel until it became pretty obvious the only stuff coming out was fresh.

On the plus side I have two more Mustangs to do stuff with & shuffling things around will hopefully get me back to having time to actually film 'em! Thanks for the supportive words.

Thank you! The manual is something you'd have to want, for sure - it's not for everyone. Thankfully no real bumper to bumper traffic where I live so it's fun more often than it's not here.

Sure - they're 67.1mm (the hub of the Patriot) to 71.5mm (the bore of the wheels) - amzn.to/4crstH8 You might also need VERY thin wheel spacers just on the front if your brakes graze the wheel. I found mine just barely touched the wheel after I put new pads on (the new pad thickness moved the caliper slightly) so I got 3mm spacers with the same 67.1mm center bore and put them behind the rings.

🤣 gotta change that sauce once in a while!

@@shoveI Once in alot of whiles

Thank you!

Same as in the video, the lift doesn't change that 😀

@@shoveI ok cool thanks

The OE replacement size Bilsteins have trivially more travel than stock (like 10mm or something if I remember correctly) and have no problem with a 1.5" lift, you still have the full range of motion as stock, at least until your coils stack. We found out over the years that there's not much to gain from increasing travel on these trucks because what little extra capability you get in the short term it just ends up chewing out your radius arm bushings. So the little bit of extra height helps keep your transfer case and rocker panels a bit farther from the ground and keeps 33"+ tires from rubbing on compression as much.

These guys don't, I'm pretty sure they're focused on cost here. TMI (tmiproducts dot com) makes leather Mustang seats, they're a bit more $ but a lot more choices.

Thank you!! 59k km's is barely getting started

Just trying to see whats the biggest i can fit this helps out a lot

Respect all builds man

where urs at.

Why are you car kink shaming 😔

94 cobra intake manifold, 1.72 rollers, stock cam, e7 heads, ford performance headers, bbk catted midpipe, 2.5" from the collectors to the big chome tips. The previous owner installed the flowmaster 44's, the rest is work I did while rehabilitating the car. These things drone like crazy from the high 1000's to the high 2000's (rpm) inside, outside, anywhereside. I have delta flow 50's on my v6 and they have zero drone. Can't compare a v6 to a v8 of course... anyway as soon as I have the spare $$ to lose these things they're going anywhere else but here and I'll pick up something a whole lot quieter.

@@shoveI If you don't need the exact Flowmaster sound, look into Hooker Aerochambers. They're a straight through muffler with a sort of chambered design, they sound really good and very minimal drone.

mine too man. 95 gt, some type of flowmaster exaust on it too lol. but its just random little thing after random thing honestly never know what to expect. they were built so solidly that its never the part you'd expect to be the first to fail lol

That's unfortunate to hear about the Grabber APT because unlike these the APT's were given the 3 peak mountain snowflake doodad so I'd expect them to be better. I have Kumho AT51's on my pretend Jeep and while they don't seem to be quite as wear resistant as the Continentals they're in a whole other league on packed snow and light ice. I'd consider them on my truck just because I know what to expect for better or worse. They're the closest thing to magic braking on wet or dry pavement, if I had to complain about anything they'll scrub a bit more than I like on a freeway cloverleaf. That might be my fault for asking too much. They're made in Vietnam. Previously I had Cooper STMaxx on this truck which did surprisingly well in the worst winter weather I could find, but dang those things got noisy in the second half of their life and started wearing like they were made out of corn flakes after the first year. Real shame because when they were good they were great. The other tires I'd seriously look at are Falken AT4W's because everyone seems to love those things, they seem to tick all the boxes. They're made in Thailand. Also the Michelin Agilis Crossclimate looks real promising and LT sizes are made in the USA for the North America market.

Hey thanks for the feedback. I will take a look at your suggestions. I've heard good things about the Falken AT3/4. Same for the Nokian Outpost NAT tires. Both seem to be pretty off-road centric though. Two other tires I'm considering that are a bit more aggressive than the Continental AT's are the Vredestein Pinza AT and the Yokohama G015. I've got to run an LT tire on this truck for towing and my truck camper. The APT's are a load C which is what Ford calls for on my truck. But that load rating is hard to find. And I'm reluctant to go down to an SL rated tire. So I'm searching for the load E tires that are like the Continental's.

The differentials at both ends are open so if one axle is missing there would be no torque transfer.

@@shoveI Soo, my Jeep MUST HAVE the CV Axles or it ain't going no where... Correct??

I have to admit I hadn't considered that... I'd just put the axles in it?