Видео

Everyone's idea of off road is different but I'm going to say no, not the right car to buy if you have the goal of adventuring in the dirt. Even if you equip it with skidplates and recovery points it just doesn't have the torque to climb steep grades or force its way across tough moguls and there's no real way to improve that aspect. If you imagine the kind of roads a Corolla could force its way through with some damage, a Patriot will cruise through those without drama or damage. Neglected forest service roads to hiking trails, snowed over rural roads and driveways.. but nothing that's got a sign that says "Jeep Trail" .

@shoveI thanks man! I really appreciate it! Will start looking into something different then, probably something with a v6

Thanks! The closest equivalent size for 15" wheels would be 215/75R15 which is 1.8% larger diameter on the outside, or 215/70R15 which is 1.1% smaller.

This exact configuration is rated to tow 9050 pounds. The highest capacity for 120" wheelbase Rams in this generation is the 2WD equipped with the Hemi and 8HP transmission and 3.92 axle gears, 9180 pounds. The lowest capacity one is 4wd, equipped with the V6 engine and 3.21 axle gears, 4770 pounds. I've towed a little over 7000 with mine, a SUV on a 2 axle flatbed trailer from Van Nuys to Phoenix and it was comfortable, good control of the trailer. Braking and power were no problem. Fuel consumption was abysmal.

It's so nice to not have that rear deck trying to play its own tune back there.. just gotta do something about these dronemasters before summer driving season.

It's a bit funny that the variant which might do better on steep climbs is available in a country with fewer opportunities to use that. Obviously I never try to drive mine on serious trails but in the Western USA we have thousands of trailheads for hiking or sightseeing that are below the limits of a serious off-roader and above the capabilities of a purely road oriented car. The Patriot strikes a fair balance there and when I do have trouble on those routes it is always the absence of torque at the wheels, not traction or clearance.

@shoveI yeah we are pretty limited with knarly roads over here. Although in Wales and North of Scotland there are some tricky rough tracks which are good for this kind of thing. Most of our roads now look like something out the third world the number of pot holes we have!

I've never seen one with a threaded nut behind the stamped bumper substructure, though I have seen that in a few related cars. I have only ever looked that closely at a half dozen Patriots and all were post-refresh (2011+ ) The trail rated rear bumper cover is visually very different with a large, in-the-mold cutout through which the hook extends. The hook itself is bolted with two fasteners through the chassis rail (closest equivalent to a frame on a unibody car) and several inches lower than the bumper substructure. If yours has the threaded nut I think it's likely you could perform light recovery with it, where only a few hundred pounds of steady force is applied but I would advise against any rough recovery to avoid ambulance rides and the like.

So far no problems with it, no noise or quality concerns except that I believe the rear cheap struts settled slightly more than the fronts did. If cost was no object I'd choose KYB or Bilstein struts instead. Also if you plan to DIY your alignment there's finally a good solution for using your phone which is better than the old alignment plates I used in this video. Look up Gyraline if that interests you.

@ awesome, thanks for the reply and the good info. I’ll look into that definitely!👍

It's either your struts or your upper and lower control arms. I just replaced all those parts on my 10 patriot along with the wheel bearings. Got rid of all the squeaks and noises. Easy way to tell is to look at the rubber bushings. Any visible wear or cracks then its time to replace.

Is the tiny ticking sound normal when accelerating?

As far as I've been able to observe Hemi's in the process of eating their camshaft will deposit glitter in the oil. A seller might give it an oil and filter change to try to hide it of course so if the oil is fresh you might not be able to get much from that. The other prevalent tick is a broken exhaust manifold bolt which can be inspected by a mechanic or even visually with some success. If it's just a broken exhaust manifold bolt that's not an expensive fix though it will still be hundreds with labor.

Thanks for info, yeah I took in to mechanic to inspect and right away he could tell there's an exhaust leak

Cam wear is pretty uncommon in these engines (assuming you're in North America and have the 2.0 or 2.4 gasoline engine) - if there's wear in those I'd be more concerned about timing chain wear. The only thing you can really do about that is be diligent about oil changes and accept that damage already done can't be undone, short of very costly replacement. Since apparent cam wear is present you can expect possible wear in the cam phasers and the cam timing solenoid which can make a noisy tick in operation especially if it's worn or sticky. If you idle a lot remember that idle time doesn't accumulate miles but it still factors into how much wear the engine and the oil experiences.

Yes and no, they do take a moment to warm up enough to emit light when it's really cold, but never more than a second or two if they're working correctly. Lower K color temperatures like 4000-5000 emit a lot of infrared and broad spectrum light so they reflect well off wet and dry surfaces. Still not as much as incandescent but they can emit a lot more total light. Only real down sides are both the ballast and the bulb have finite lifetimes & they need to be in a projector or a reflector specifically designed for them, retrofits that just use the same incandescent reflector make a lot of glare and don't send the light down the road where you need it. When they're great they're great.

I have same as you Waltmart dint want to do it either... I went to discount tires store And they got me 235 65 16... My rims is 16 not 17 But still has room So I think 236 65 17 will work too... Go to a discount tire shop or a another known tire shop... Petboys dint have that sise. .. I got 235/65/16 and has plenty of room to go a Lil bigger. ..my car is also front w/d And all stock.. Everything came out at 400 and some dollars With 40k miles warranty on the tires

@Hacunamattata heck yea, thanks for the quick reply man!

Looks like you got helped out, yep you can fit the same tires on with 2wd or 4wd. Still will want to calibrate the Jeep so your transmission, throttle body and speedometer work accurately. Have fun!

Thanks! The first part with rain on the lens was the pretend Insta360, then switched to my phone (pixel 7) on a windshield mount , 2.7k @ 59fps, edited just for playback speed in filmora

I've never looked into doing this, but if it is possible (safely) the most likely way would be by deactivating the FDCM in JSCAN. There may be more to it than that but it's where I would start if I was trying to do that.

@shoveI thanks 😃

As long as your replacement tire is the same size (same digits) it's fine to just replace one. There are no unrelieved components in the drive system to bind or overheat from the trivial difference in tread thickness.

@@shoveI Thank you ... I don't understand why some AWD's may need replacing all 4 tires to keep a "perfect spec", but it is an excessive waste IMO. This is consumer, we aren't NASCAR driving.

Yep, 235/65R17 fits great, depending on your wheels. You'll want to use JSCAN to recalibrate the Jeep for the new tire size that not only keeps your speedometer accurate it also makes sure the electronic throttle and the transmission are working their best with the actual speed you're moving.

Thanks for the info again love your jeep

They drop right in, same body harness connector. They do use different bulbs, so shop bulbs for a 94/95 if you're replacing them. Also be aware that the cruise control on SN95's uses the brake lamp filament as a validator for going into cruise so if you put in LED bulbs your cruise will stop working. There's a workaround but the easiest workaround is just regular bulbs. You can use LEDs in the reversing lamps.

Unfortunately no, the spare tire well is a bit shallow for the full width of the tire (235 is a bit over 9" and the sidewalls bulge to over 10" ) and even if you deflate the tire there just isn't room to smash it down there and keep the load surface in place. Your options would be to either keep the OE spare, which is smaller and will make traction control/ABS go into failure mode while you're using it but should get you home if you're not way out in the bush, or put a fullsize spare on top of the load surface (strap it down to reduce danger if you're in a collision), or you could get a 17" spare wheel from another vehicle and mount a 165/90R17 temporary spare on that which is about the same diameter as a mounted 235/75R15 just skinny. I can't guarantee it but I am reasonably confident that would fit under the cover if you trim the liner blanket a little.

The 4WD system on these cars cannot accommodate different tire sizes front and rear, so if your rear tires are larger then that is going to damage the car. You'll probably have to diagnose the specific part that is failing rather than firing the parts cannon at it, but if you do repair it also make sure all four tires are exactly the same measurements.

The catalytic converters are still the stock ones. Her car has Pacesetter short headers # 70-1077 and the Magnaflow # 15717 dual exhaust, but the midpipe with the catalytic converters is still stock.